Understanding the terms Set vs Cure
The set-time of an adhesive refers to the time it takes for the glue to set firmly enough to hold
the item being glued without assistance; for example the clamp on a fletching jig. The cure-time
is when a glue isfully cured and the product is ready for use.
Adhesive taking too long to dry
1. Misconception of the time it should take: Don't rush the glue, a full cure can take up to 24
hours for "Instant" glue depending on the formulation.
2. Too much glue: Be sparing, excessive amounts of glue only lengthen cure time and do not
increase the final bond.
3. Dry environment: Cyanoacrylate adhesives, of which Zing is one, require ambient moisture
and part moisture to cure. If the environment where the adhesive is being used is dry, then the
moisture content on the part itself will be lessened, thereby lengthening the set and cure time.
4. Glue is old: Just like anything, the components that make up the adhesive can break down
over time, although it should take years for one of our tubes to get to this state. I am still using
one of our bottles from our original batch and it still remains stable.
1. Use more primer: When you prime the surface be sure you can see that it is wet.
Double prime, even triple prime the surface to allow more of the chemical to do it's work.
Remember, the primer is just that; a primer it creates a chemical bond between the adhesive
and the substrate.
2. Remove excess adhesive: Use a cotton swab to remove pooled adhesive along the base of
the vane, thereby allowing air/moisture to gain access to the substrate.
3. More pressure on the parts: When gluing, apply pressure to the mating surfaces. This forces
the parts surface moisture into the adhesive hastening the curing process.
4. Use an accelerator: Cyanoacrylate accelerators are widely available. Found in Hobby shops
and hardware stores, accelerators are a way to quickly "set" the adhesive. You may use your
Zing! primer to set the glue after the adhesive has been applied and the parts mated. Do not
however, use the brush cap to apply as this may result in damage to the bristles. The use of
accelerators generally results in a less stable final bond but used under the right circum-stances can be beneficial.
Comments on helical fletching.
Getting good vane base to shaft contact is essential to a good helical fletch. If the base does
not contact the shaft over the entire length especially the ends, you can end up with a less
than desirable looking fletching job rendering it not a true helical. I owned a helical clamp for
my Bitzenburger jig and after over an hour of adjusting I was unable to get full contact through-
out the vane. I traded for the straight clamp and only use off-set when using that particular
With regard to the helical not seeming to be a true helical I can only assume the front and/or
back of the vane is not in full contact with the arrow shaft. Without a hands-on experience with
your jig I'm afraid I can't say more than that without speculating. If you care to send a few
photos that may help and I'd be glad to look at them.
Primer Pen use:
ZING! Remover use:
The different Zing adhesives and their uses:
There is a misconception that instant glue is instant. Super glue is really not instant glue. While
in many cases you can find that the adhesive may set quickly, it likely is not cured and ready
for use. There are a few things that can be done to move the process along more quickly.
Since I do not own a helical Bitzenburger jig I feel I can only comment on the vane and best
practices regarding fletching.
Excessive set and cure time
Causes and remedies.